Inhabited by the Kuna Indians for approximately a century, the 350 or so islands, which make up the San Blas archipelago, were recently declared an autonomous province within the country of Panama. Of the 350, far less than 10% of the islands are inhabited with any form of human life. We visited one that was, called Achutupo, which constitutes the fourth largest town in the province. We chose this island due to its non-status as a tourist destination.

While waiting in line at the airport gate in Panama City we were greeted by a woman offering us a room at the Dolphin Island Resort in Achutupo. "No thanks," we expressed, as we were determined to stick to our "wing it" mode of travel and find something upon arriving at the island. "We'd rather consider our options when we arrive at the Achutupo airport, but thanks for offering." She smiled and let us go on our way ... we would understand the reason for the smirk in a few hours. We had made at least three false assumptions in turning down this woman... (i) there was more than one place to stay on the island, (ii) there would be human beings at the airport, and (iii) Achutupo had an airport.

The "airport" was comprised of a 100-yard strip of rough pavement on the edge of the island, and a 10-foot by 10-foot hut off to the side. There was one old, wooden boat near the runway strip, and it offered rides to the one hotel within 20 islands in either direction... the Dolphin Island Resort. Begrudgingly, we agreed with our friend back in Panama City and took a room there.

While rustic in every way imaginable, our two days in Achutupo were a wonderful experience. We spent the better part of our first day on an uninhabited island two islands over from ours. We contemplated having the owner of our hotel ferry us back to the island to camp out that night, but we just kept thinking of the movie "Castaway." So, we decided to instead spend the night in our cabana on the ocean.

Tiffany discovered a new talent as she accepted an invitation to join ten or so of the Kuna Indians in practicing with them a traditional tribal dance. I was duly impressed (both with her rhythmic dancing and the fact that she managed to avoid pulling a muscle). It's now time to head west into the mountains. We'll tell you where we are once we arrive.

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