Basque Country and Cantabria

Just southwest of the Franco-Spanish and bathed by the Atlantic Bay of Biscay, the Basque Country is comprised of three main provinces: Vizcaya (which includes the sunny city of Bilbao); Guipuzcoa (home to the beaches San Sebastián); and Alava, where the Basque capital, Vitoria, lies. Navarre, east of Euskadi (the poetic and nationalistic name of the region) and part Basque in its upper reaches, and La Rioja, south of Euskadi and the premier Spanish wine country, are closely linked neighbors.

The entire region is packed with natural pleasures and artistic treasures, spread out between urban cultural centers and verdant countryside. From the industrial muscle and newfound artistic power of Bilbao (home to the Guggenheim museum, acclaimed as an architectural masterpiece) to the grace and lightness of San Sebastián, from the classical sweep of Pamplona to Vitoria's weathered stone or Logroño's streets looking out on the fruited plains of the Ebro valley, the five main cities have distinct characters to savor. In addition, the geographical gamut running from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pyrenees and Picos de Europa means that surfing, sailing, skiing, and mountain hiking are all within a 100-mile radius.

To the west of the Basques, just an hour's drive over the foothills of the Picos de Europa, is the city of Santander, gateway to the beautiful province of Cantabria. Cantabria is one of the oldest inhabited regions of Spain - the famous painted caves of Altamira date to 15,000 BC, Stonehenge-like circles tie the country to the Neolithic and Celtic cultures of early Britain, and Roman ruins testify to the presence of a mighty Imperial outpost. Today, the region is alive with history, with Celtic music accompanying dances and meals that last long into the night, happenings that are especially evident in Santander. The city's great cathedral overlooks two of the loveliest beaches in Spain - la Magdalena and el Sardinero - and the seaside taverns and shops are built almost vertically on top of one another as the ground quickly rises into the great hills and mountains of the countryside. The Cantabrian coast features wonderful hotels and intriguing paradores - converted historic castles and inns - at which to rest and dine after a day exploring history, making it a perfect complement to your journey in the Basque Country.

 

Santiago and Porto

Transcending the northern Portuguese-Spanish border is a wonderful journey through a countryside filled with important religious shrines, ancient ruins, and dramatic castles. Santiago de Compostela was the most important European city after Rome for nearly 600 years, inspiring the Reconquest and the devotion of millions of pilgrims who traveled through France and northern Spain to worship at the shrine containing the bones of St. James, from whom the city takes its name. The amazing cathedral towers over the central square, where some of the oldest continuously operating hotels in the world can be found (several date from the 14th century or before) along with a vibrant artistic enclave of shops and open-air markets. Pilgrims still throng the streets and participate in continual festivals which bring the best musicians, bullfighters, and chefs to this far northwestern corner of the peninsula.

A pretty drive or train ride south from Santiago brings you along the Atlantic coast and through the Portuguese cordillera to Porto, in the coastal hills of one of the best wine-producing regions of Europe. The lovely surrounding Douro valley is home to several national parks, nature preserves, and interesting rock formations, once home to Neanderthals and later Paleolithic man. Porto is a perfect base for exploring the great castles of the seafaring Portuguese princes, the wineries and cellars of the Douro, and the forests of the North. Northern Portugal is also host to the best and most interesting pousadas, state-run inns in historic buildings outfitted with every modern luxury. An adventure between Santiago and Porto will be a mystical one, not soon to be forgotten.

 

Canary Islands

The Canary Islands are a volcanic chain off the northwest coast of Africa, proudly maintaining both African and Spanish traditions. While well known as a European beach resort destination, there is still plenty of subtlety, natural beauty, and authenticity, especially inland on the main isle of Tenerife. Other wonderful islands to visit are the volcanically-active desert isle of Lanzarote, the garden isle of La Palma, and the tiny, mountainous El Hierro looking out towards the open Atlantic. Tenerife, the principal gateway, is just over two hours from Madrid and four from London.

 

 

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